So if you’re looking to save a few kWh’s and extend your range, you’ll want to use the cruise control a lot. Much like the computers that actually fly a jet aircraft, the throttle (?? Not a throttle, maybe an accelerator) computers can make finer adjustments much quicker than my size 10.5 boat shoes could ever dream of. It’s actually neat to watch the energy meters make tiny tiny adjustments when the computer is driving.
So here’s how the cruise works.
- To turn it on, push the stalk in towards the steering column.
- To set a speed, move the stalk up or down. It’ll engage at the speed you’re currently traveling.
- To accelerate or decelerate by 1 mph (helpful when trying to follow the inconsistent speed of trucks, not their fault), nudge the stalk up or down, stopping at the first detent.
- To jump up or down by 5 mph, mash the stalk past this first detent, until it stops, and you’ll be catapulted forward almost instantly, or go into full regen as the car slows.
- To make gradual but large speed changes, you can push and hold the stalk up or down and the car will change speed by ‘2mph per second’, according to the manual. We’re not sure this is an exact calculation but it’s effective, none the less.
- To pause the cruise, push the stalk away from you and to turn it off all together, push the stalk in towards the steering column.
One comment on the cruise, which is probably intentional for every day driving, but slightly counterproductive when you’re trying to conserve battery. When you change speed, the car applies liberal amounts of accelerator or decel to get to the desired speed almost immediately, and then jumps back to the steady state condition. And with 416HP and 443lb ft of torque on tap, it could be considered overkill, or at least not how Grandpa (or Grandma) would drive.